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3000GT Stealth Buyer’s Guide/Checklist

UPDATED: 10/2010

So you’re looking at your first Mitsubishi 3000GT or Dodge Stealth . It looks great in the pictures, the price is within your budget, and you’re ready to make a deal. After owning multiple 3000GTs over the past few years, my number one advice would be to be patient when looking to purchase one of these jaw-dropping machines. Never rush a purchase, there are always other 3S’ available on the market, or there will be soon. Wait patiently for the right car, one that has maintenance records, looks and feels right, and is within your budget. Pay a little extra for a well-maintained car. It will save you a bundle of money and headaches in the long run.

Before I get started, do not be afraid to tackle minor repairs yourself. There is a great community at 3si.org that offers a wealth of knowledge. If you need parts for your 3000GT/Stealth, check into Mitsparts.com. They have great prices although their customer service is just “OK.”

When you go to look at your (possibly) new vehicle, here are some specific things you should check on:

Exterior

  • Inspect all panels carefully and look for problematic alignment issues, paint defects, or signs of panels being repainted or replaced.
  • In 1994 3000GT and Stealth models, look for foggy glass headlights. They can be restored with a few hours work without too much difficulty. Look for signs of clearcoat peeling on the Lexan (plastic) headlights of 95+ models. This requires much more work to restore. Click here to see a guide on restoring each (lexan | glass ).
  • Although the 3S chassis is not particularly prone to rust, it may happen in northern climates, particularly where roads are salted. Look for obvious bubbles in the paint as there may be rust underneath. The exhaust system is most likely to rust. Bring a flashlight and try to spot badly rusted components (catalytic converter, mufflers, downpipe). Having a mechanic look at the underbody carefully with the car on a lift is recommended.
  • SOME 2nd generation (94+) models with red paint do not have clearcoat from the factory, and fade more easily than other colors. As these cars get older, paint flaws are bound to happen particularly where they are constantly exposed to direct sunlight.
  • A common wear item is the strip/moulding where the bottom of the driver/passenger window meets the door. It is best to purchase these new. See our list of recommended vendors .
  • Fading of the black panel at the base of the hatch glass is very common. See this guide to restore it yourself.
  • Make sure all of the locks work with the key. They do have a tendency to get stuck.
  • Active Aero also tends to get stuck. The front dam and the rear spoiler operate together, so if one fails neither will work.\
  • Info on Spyder models is specialized and can be found here: http://www.3000gtspyderregistry.com/

Interior

  • The most common wear items inside the car are the driver’s side leather seat (bolster), door panels bubbling, dash vents cracking. You can purchase replacement seat covers from leatherseats.com, but they are expensive. Door panels are best purchased used. Dash vents are cheap, but rather difficult to replace as they require removal of the entire dash assembly.
  • Check the door seals and weatherstripping for cracking, tears, and hardness. Ideally they should be conditioned every season to remain soft and provide a good seal. Don’t let any of this prevent you from buying the car though, as it’s all available new from dealerships (Mitsparts.com).
  • Look for wear on the shift boot, e-brake boot, and steering wheel. The first two are replaceable at reasonable cost with higher quality (leather) components.
  • Window regulators eventually fail due to a plastic piece breaking inside. They can be replaced with simple tools and an hour or two of time and cost $80-150 used each.

Engine

  • When buying a used 3000GT/Stealth, engine maintenance is an important item. While the 6G72 is a robust engine, the 60,000/120,000 mile service is a must for these cars. This service includes the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, oil pump (every 120k miles, ideally sooner), and a few more items like gaskets. Check this 60k/120k list for full details. This service costs about $1000 (including parts) from a dealer, or about $500 in parts to do it yourself. This is critical to the car’s longevity. If the service has not been done, be sure to set money aside to do it right away.
  • Turbos tend to begin failing at 100,000 miles-150,000, even with proper care. The stock 9B turbos are small, spin very fast, and generate a LOT of heat. A good used pair will run you about $300-400, or you can do a basic upgrade for about $1000 excluding necessary fuel system modifications. The stock boost gauge is worthless and does not reflect true boost pressure. The most accurate way to check on the turbos’ health is to remove the intake to check for shaft play. You can also remove the intercooler piping and Y-pipe to check for excessive oil. A thin film is normal. Lastly, when under heavy acceleration or deceleration, keep an eye out for smoke coming from either under the hood or out of the exhaust.
  • Before you start the car, open the hood and look for signs of leaks around the valve covers, oil cap, master and slave clutch cylinders, brake master cylinder. Use your handy flashlight to look for signs of heavy oil/dirt stuck to the oil pan. Quickly look over the intercooler piping and make sure all of the clamps are in place and there are no cracks.
  • The cooling system is very effective when fully operational. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge inside the car, it should not go over the half-way mark on a healthy cooling system. Look for cracks in the hoses and fans, and damage to the radiator itself.
  • Listen for belts squealing, this may be a sign that either the drive belt or power steering belt may be loose or worn.

Transmission

  • Inquire about transmission service (when/if the clutch was replaced, when fluids were changed). If the owner has no records, you are taking a bigger chance, especially with a high mileage car. At stock power levels, the factory MANUAL 5/6 speed transmissions are durable provided maintenance has been done. Shifts should be smooth and not grind. A little notchiness can be addressed with high quality synthetic gear oils such as Penzoil Synchromesh, Royal Purple Max Gear, and Red Line MTL, MT-90. Automatics tend to fail sooner than their manual counterpart and will cost more to repair or replace. Pay attention to gear changes on acceleration and look for abnormalities. New parts for the 3000GT VR4 and Stealth R/T Turbo transmissions (5/6 speed) are VERY hard to come by and thus increasingly expensive.
  • The 5 speed transfer case on 91-93 models has had a recall issued by the NHTSA because of a dangerously defective design. If the recall service has not been done, take the car to any Mitsubishi dealer to have the seals on the transfer case replaced. They are required to by law, unless it has already been performed on the car. This is very important for both your safety and for the car’s AWD system.
  • The clutch pedal is naturally stiff, but should not require 400 lb leg presses. Note any slippage or engagement issues. Sometimes the problem can be as simple as adjusting the clutch pedal to replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders and the clutch fluid line, or having to replace the clutch itself.

Steering and Suspension

  • If equipped, check on the electronically controlled suspension (ECS). It should default to “Tour.” If it is stuck on Sport or is flashing, there is likely a problem with the ECS system. The ECS computer in the hatch sometimes blows its capacitors, or the wires on the strut caps may become frayed.
  • When driving the car, listen for any abnormal noises (clicking, clunking) in the suspension or steering. It should be tight and straight. Keep the window open to listen. Check on the power steering fluid.
  • Check for curb damage on the wheels, amount of tread left, and even wear across the tire. Uneven wear my indicate alignment/suspension issues.

Electronics

  • Look for any obvious warning lights in the main gauge cluster. If you need a guide on what a particular symbol means, look here. Check engine lights in 96+ models (OBDII) can be diagnosed at Autozone, or similar auto parts stores. Other years will need to be tested with something called a datalogger or by a dealer.
  • SRS lights are rather common and can range from just needing to be reset by a dealer from the system voltage dropping too low, to needing new sensors or SRS module.
  • Test out all of the gadgets such as the wipers, headlights, turn signals, brake lights, radio and antenna, keyless entry, heated mirrors, active aero, active exhaust, ECS, etc.
  • If looking at a 91-93 model, inquire about the ECU/ECM capacitors being replaced. They are extremely prone to leaking and ruining the entire computer. This may cause mysterious hesitations in acceleration and fuel delivery issues.

Feel free to post a comment or contact me with questions

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  1. 103 Responses to “3000GT Stealth Buyer’s Guide/Checklist”

  2. By Ray on May 4, 2008 | Reply

    that was a killer thread… how do you know for sure if the seals have been changed on the transfer case?
    does mitsi have a database? Also do you think synchromesh is the best choice?
    Thanx

  3. By wildarmz on May 4, 2008 | Reply

    Ray,

    Mitsu has a database so you should be able to call and ask. Synchromesh is good. I have used it in the past. Right now i’m using Royal Purple Max Gear and like it a lot. A lot of people also use Redline products. 3sx.com carries them and tells you how much you need.

  4. By mark on Oct 28, 2008 | Reply

    I have a dash light on my 1992 Dodge Stealth that comes on when the engine is cold and I first start it up. The indicator is in the lower right side of the dash. It looks like a house. Any assistance as to what that might be ?

  5. By wildarmz on Oct 28, 2008 | Reply

    Mark-that’s the coolant/antifreeze warning light. Either its low on coolant or the sensor underneath the overflow tank is bad.

  6. By Tom on Nov 5, 2008 | Reply

    Im currently looking at a ’92 stealth with 40,000 miles on the clock. Very loved by the owner who is a mechanic. Any ideas what a reasonable price might be? Again, condition is very good. Its the only one in this country (saudi) and i have no reference..

  7. By wildarmz on Nov 5, 2008 | Reply

    Tom-

    is it a SOHC, DOHC, or DOHC Turbo model?

    A SOHC (base model) is not worth much anywhere. DOHC (es, r/t non turbo) with that mileage I would estimate at being worth between $4000-6000 in the States. A turbo model with that low of mileage is sure to fetch a premium, i’d say in the $10,000-$12,000 range. Be sure you check out the 3si.org classifieds to get a better idea.

  8. By Tom on Nov 5, 2008 | Reply

    Its a DOHC Turbo. Thanks for the info.

  9. By Mike on Nov 10, 2008 | Reply

    I’ve been looking for some solid advice regarding my ’93 Stealth (DOHC 75K miles)and ran into this thread — looks like you would be the guy to ask!

    I’ve been chasing down a number of electrical problems to get this car back on the road — its been sitting for about a year only put about 200-300 miles on it in that time. I went thru the “click-no start” thing, replacing the starter, battery, putting in a relay, then a new starter switch, only to end up re-splicing some poor factory ignition connections under the dash. Now my headlights suddenly don’t light (meaning they did the first day I drove it after finally fixing the starting problem, now today they don’t.)I checked the headlight relay under the dash, which “clicks” when I turn the switch on.

    I have read some things regarding leaking capacitors on the ecm board — does that sound like a possibility to you? Any advise would be helpful.

    Thanks,
    Mike

  10. By wildarmz on Nov 10, 2008 | Reply

    Hello Mike,

    Doesn’t sound like a symptom of a bad ECU. There is a headlight relay in the engine bay relay box (in front of the battery. the relay should be labeled headlight or headlamp relay) that does go out in some cases. Check all the fuses inside the car too. It may sound silly but it’s easy to miss!

    If checking on those doesn’t produce anything, check out this thread:

    http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/no-headlights-taillights-434193/

  11. By Mike on Nov 10, 2008 | Reply

    Thanks — will do.

  12. By shane Triano on Nov 13, 2008 | Reply

    I have a 91 SL with 246,000 miles on it. I have no history on the car but I have been running it for about 8 months now. Recently it started doing nothing when I turn on the ignition. Not even a click. After I turn it off and on a few times, all of the sudden it starts like there isno problem at all. I have tried to wiggle the shift, close the door better and even tighten the wiring harness but I am not sure what electrical problem it is having. It seems like it may be some sort of computer problem. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Shane

  13. By wildarmz on Nov 13, 2008 | Reply

    Hey Shane,

    The first thing I always check on is the battery and the ground wires coming off of the negative post. Make sure the battery terminals are clean & secure while you’re at it.

    I had a similar problem to yours in the past where I couldn’t even get the starter to turn until a few tries later (sometimes not at all). Long story short, my alternator ended up being toast, which was giving my battery fits. Keep an eye on your voltage when the car is running. Should be around 13V. Autozone/Advanced Auto/etc can test both your battery and alternator for free.

    If the problem is not related to either of those, I would suspect the ignition switch. The reason I say that is because you should hear the MFI relay click when you turn the key to the “ON” position. It’s located here: http://www.3sx.com/store/catalog/stock-mfi-relay-05-500l.jpg .

  14. By Greg on Nov 16, 2008 | Reply

    Ok been eyeballing this car a while almost bought the VR4 w/50000 miles last year white 1 owner 10k somewhat local and backed because of reported huge repairs a year or so regreted it. Now at work a guy showed up with one 154k not to much problem.
    So i got weak every day i started seeing them around then grabbed one tonight online with like a dozen photos bought it with 2 check engone lights on Tour Sport lights flash on the dash and SRS light stays on. East coast
    pulled a car report not bad 120+k miles under 5k 92′ so now i wait like 3ks to drive it, I know by your advice buy the best kept one will save
    money. Do the reccomended by the book maitainance. But have no idea of wheel pull. noises, or anything except just some photos looking fairly clean 2 owner no wrecks.
    risky especially when cash is tight the owner did the TB @ 80K. No other info like turbos, brakes, tires, transmission he said trans was smooth.
    Any thoughts for my impulsive buying?
    Im 44 and have had a few sports cars 5liter 5spd
    mustang 3 Z cars and a camero and 10 4×4
    lots sa repair bills too.
    Thats my story i’m having it shipped to westcoast.
    Thanks Greg

  15. By wildarmz on Nov 17, 2008 | Reply

    Greg,

    The flashing tour/sport mode usually means either the strut cap wires are frayed or that the ECS computer (the capacitors 99% of the time) is shot. Not too expensive to replace it if you buy them used. SRS light is very common and can usually just be reset by a dealer.

    As far as your impulse buy, I would have to say hold off until you find one from your side of the country so that you can check it out. It’s a big risk otherwise. I know how it feels when you’re anxious to get one though!

    If you still think this is “the one,” ask if he kept actual maintenance records. You can’t go by peoples’ word about these things. 120K-150k is where a lot of the wear and tear starts to show up both inside and out in the 3000GT/Stealth. Are you willing to do some of your own repairs on the car? Do you have the time for it? That should also be considered in your purchase. Did I mention it’s always better and cheaper in the long run to save a little more and get the nicer car? :-)

    I bought my car with 54k on the clock knowing only how to do oil changes. These cars will eventually turn you into a part-time mechanic but they are VERY fun and reliable when kept in shape. I haven’t touched my ’94 besides fluid changes in over a year.

  16. By hansam on Nov 24, 2008 | Reply

    I have bought a 91′ dodge stealth dohc a month ago ,I had an eye for this car since i laid my eyes on it and the one i got seems to be fine till it happened…
    engine start to malfunction, and i guess its the ECU.
    When driving it will suddenly lose engine power and the check engine light would turn on, seems like the ignition is misfiring.
    Ive tried diagnosing the problem by checking the spark plugs as well as the cables and seems to be working fine. Somebody told me to reset it by detaching the battery terminal and putting it back again and then I did so, to my surprise it went back to life as if nothing happened. I then went to a mechanic to have it checked and he find nothing even w/ the aid of a diagnostic computer,but it still happening every week.Would it be the ECU capacitor issue or something else. PLS enlighten me of the probable cause…
    Thanks

  17. By wildarmz on Nov 24, 2008 | Reply

    Could be an ECU issue. It’s pretty simple to take it out and inspect for leaky capacitors (http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecmremoval.htm)

    If it’s not that, check to make sure your grounds are solid and make sure your battery reads 12.8v or higher at idle from the gauge inside.

    After that you could test out the ignition coils (http://www.stealth316.com/2-ignitioncoils.htm).

    I hope that gives you some direction.

  18. By DJ on Feb 1, 2009 | Reply

    I have a 91′ vr-4. The car will not run with maf pluged in. So thinking it was bad I replaced it. But I still can’t get it run. cheecked & cleaned ISC and looked for vacume leaks, still no luck. looking for any info & advice. thank! DJ.

  19. By Nick on Apr 11, 2009 | Reply

    Well I Just Got A 93 Dodge Stealth R/T non turbo, and the light above the SRS on the dash is on..what is that light…
    and is it possible for me to put on the twin turbo with out blowing the motor, or should i just buy the twin turbo motor

  20. By Jay on May 1, 2009 | Reply

    Minor problems with a sensor light for temp coming on & off. Is this common, or something tp seriously be concerned about? It is a 3000GT Mitsubishi

  21. By wildarmz on May 1, 2009 | Reply

    Jay: Do you mean the coolant light (looks like a house with pillars)? Every time I’ve seen that it’s been because of low coolant (possibly a leak?). The sensor can go bad too, it’s easy to replace.

  22. By Tanner on May 3, 2009 | Reply

    Im looking at buying a 3000gt, looking at a 96-99, ive been reading alot about them. Ive heard that they are not reliable at all and that they are extremely reliable. Of course it all depends on how it is treated and maintenced. But my main question is what are the main things to go out on the car first?

    As soon as i get one (asuming i do) i plan on doing a full engine service on it, so that way i dont have to worry about anything of the sort going out.

    I was just browsing the internet and found this site at work and the history will be wiped out tonight, so if you respond to my post could please email it to tanner2828@gmail.com Thanks in advance
    -tanner

  23. By lonewolf on Jul 28, 2009 | Reply

    92 Stealth ES (non turbo)…seems like it’s not getting fuel. will turn over, but not start. is there a fuel relay on this car or a fuse of some type to check? Thanks

  24. By wildarmz on Jul 28, 2009 | Reply

    Yes, the MFI relay is on the right side of the center console/shifter behind a removable, carpeted piece. You should hear it “click” when you put the key in the “ON” position.

  25. By ed on Aug 24, 2009 | Reply

    i have a 1992 dodge stealth r/t (non turbo) it sounds like it whants to start bout does’nt and if it start it randemly will shut off and befor it shuts off i here 2 to 3 clcking sounds. what is it?

  26. By wildarmz on Aug 24, 2009 | Reply

    So I take it the starter cranks? The fact that it starts sometimes then dies out makes me think that it’s a fuel delivery problem (just a hunch). You need three things: air, fuel, and ignition. You may want to unbolt a fuel rail to see if there’s gas in them, check the spark plug wires for spark, and make sure your air flow sensor on the intake is connected.

  27. By jmv on Sep 12, 2009 | Reply

    I am trying to decide if I should get a 95 3000gt. The owner wants $1800 and the body is in good shape. What scares me is that the car has 180k on it and I know maintenance can be very pricey. It has a new slave cylinder, clutch, and has air intake and a chip. I am not too familiar with these cars…any advise? How many miles can I expect to run it for? Thanks.

  28. By Jarod on Sep 12, 2009 | Reply

    We have a 93 Stealth R/T non-turbo. It will not start, doesn’t click or try to turn-over. I have checked all the relays and fuses, wiring around the starter, and wiring around the ignition switch. I’m thinking it is the ignition switch but is there a way to confirm with a multimeter? Battery is good, everything else seems to be fine.

  29. By jmv on Sep 13, 2009 | Reply

    Does anyone know a good website to order parts for a 3000gt. I am looking to maybe replace interior carpet and power seats (if i get the car). Any advice? Also, what’s a good site for discount tires? I am familiar with tirerack.com.

  30. By Janelle on Sep 25, 2009 | Reply

    Love my 94 3000GT but I have a knock in the engine and am running into some minor problems. Curious as to what it might cost to completely restore under the hood to make it as reliable as a new car. Any ideas?

  31. By wildarmz on Sep 29, 2009 | Reply

    Hello everyone,

    I recommend paying a visit to the 3si.org forums for answers to your questions as I don’t have the time to get back to everyone. Thanks!

  32. By Ray Ray on Dec 18, 2009 | Reply

    i have a 1995 3000gt base model and all of a sudden i was driving and my whole interior lights went off and my gauges didnt read but yet my engine was still running. i made it home in time and i just turned it off and it died on me and now i give it juice with the jumper cables and right away when i take the jumper cables off the gage that reads the voltage for the battery shoots down and the car is still running for about 5 minutes more and then dies i need help because i miss that car .

    Thanks
    Ray

  33. By jor on Dec 27, 2009 | Reply

    alternator is bad

  34. By JimmyB on Mar 21, 2010 | Reply

    I just bought a 94 Stealth. The seller recently had a new timing belt, head gasket, and water pump put on. Also recently rebuilt trans. I am getting a light when I brake and coming to a stop. It looks like a house woth pillars??? I think it is the coolant light ? Why would this come on when slowing down ? Is This the coolant light ? It is on the bottom right side of the dash ? Any answers will help… Thanks

  35. By wildarmz on Mar 21, 2010 | Reply

    Yes that’s the coolant light. It goes on and off because liquid is moving around. Check overflow tank level. If not that then It’s most likely the level sensor underneath the overflow tank.

  36. By jessejames on Mar 26, 2010 | Reply

    hi i have a 92 dodge stealth r/t no turbo DOHC 3.0 there is a touring light on and i cant seem to get it to turn off is there any waqy possible to do this. also my engine ticks im going to assume its normal as everything i tried wont work (like sea foam and different oil and some semi synthetic oil. its the liftoers or somthing else any idea? also my car has no balls when it goes to drive. i go faster in reverse lol i dont know why but when i go drive its very sluggish and well i cant drive backwards so i need to get this fixed:) thanks for your time

    jesse

  37. By wildarmz on Mar 26, 2010 | Reply

    ECS problem – Can you switch between touring and sport? If so then its probably functioning correctly. Check the ECS cap wires on top of the strut towers for cuts or shorts, could also be the ECS computer leaking its capacitors (it’s in the hatch area behind a plastic panel).

    Ticking / sluggishness – Lifter tick is very common but should go away as the car warms up. Fully synthetic oil usually helps. Hows your oil pressure once the car is warm? At the lowest it should be ~2 ticks above the bottom on the gauge. Has it always been sluggish? Recent work done? Any check engine lights? I would check the vacuum lines and make sure none are cracked or broken, make sure your intake and air filter are tight, also check your spark plugs for anything unusual.

    Check out 3si.org forums if you are stumped.

  38. By jessejames on Mar 27, 2010 | Reply

    thanks:) ill check those out. altho i just noticed just before the catalyitic converter has a crack. could that make it sluggish? and no it has not always been sluggish. the only work done on it recently is i checked my spark plugs and there is some oil on them one plug in the fron and one plug in the back has oil on it. (assuming its the plug gromets leaking) the oil pressure when idle its about 2 ticks yes from the bottom. then when i rev and play with it it goes about half way. the only other thing i did was do a oil change recently…anyhow ill try thoses suggestions out and let you know if they worked or helped:) thanks for the reply

  39. By jessejames on Mar 27, 2010 | Reply

    ya i just found out my ECS switch dont work at all. i hope it is a problem that can be fixed easy. i hate when its computer stuff.

  40. By wazza on Apr 5, 2010 | Reply

    ive got a 91 twin turbo the car is perfect in every way except only one of my headlights goes up with the lever and button the other i have to put up manually(drivers side), ive been told they have seperate relays but am unsure where these are or if its actually this. any help would be most appreciated.

  41. By Calvin on May 5, 2010 | Reply

    I have a 1991 stealth rt twin turbo…it has 58k…I have a flashing sport light and it seems that there is oil in the coolant. Any ideas what would cause these things? Also Im looking to sell this car but not sure what to sell it for?

  42. By wildarmz on May 5, 2010 | Reply

    The flashing sport light is usually caused by the ECS strut covers having a short in the wires/connectors, or the ECS computer in the hatch has blown its capacitors. You can easily inspect the strut covers.

    As far as the oil in coolant, that could be because of a cracked block, head, or blown headgasket.

    58k is very low mileage. If you dont want to fix it I would sell for ~5,000-6,000. Your best bet is to sell it to an enthusiast on 3si.org.

  43. By CDD on May 23, 2010 | Reply

    Hey soo I have a 95 3000GT SL 180,000 miles on it, manual too. About a month ago the engine coolant light started coming on when I turned my car right. Since then the engine coolant light has started to come on whenever Im driving straight or turning right, the only time it goes off is when I turn left. The coolant isnt low and I went ahead and put some more in it just in case. I wasn’t sure if it was the sensor though because the light doesn’t stay on the entire time. Any ideas? Thanks!

  44. By stephen on Jul 6, 2010 | Reply

    1993 3000GT, car just stopped, then started ran for a couple of blocks then stopped. I think it is either the fuel filter or pump. Can anyone tell me where they are located on the vehicle? Thanks!

  45. By wildarmz on Jul 7, 2010 | Reply

    In the hatch underneath the spare tire. Check stealth316.com for a guide. It can be tricky to loosen the hard fuel line. I recommend spraying it with pb-blaster for several days.

  46. By John Barnes on Jul 13, 2010 | Reply

    I have a 1996 Dodge Stealth sometimes in warmer weather after I shut the car off it will not start. Turns over but won’t start. I wait an hour or so try again and it starts fine. Any idea what the problem is?

  47. By wildarmz on Jul 14, 2010 | Reply

    Most likely a fuel issue (pump or MFI relay would be my guess). Search 3si.org for more info.

  48. By Rick Wirt on Jul 16, 2010 | Reply

    How do I reset the check engine light. Also if the timing breaks will it do damage to the engine? thanks

  49. By Mike on Jul 30, 2010 | Reply

    I have a 93 stealth twin turbo where exactly under what panel is the ESC located at.

  50. By Jennifer on Sep 22, 2010 | Reply

    Have had a 1991 Stealth for 5 years now. I had a problem with car not starting for no reason at all (battery, connections, electrical system all good). Turned out to be the computer – which needed to be reprogrammed.

  51. By H.A on Sep 26, 2010 | Reply

    Have 1992 Dodge Stealth (Non-Turbo) , Driving one day and the rmp dipped really low and engine light came on but it pick up and keep going . Few hours later after getting off school I was at a left turn and it just shut off. Tried to start it but seemed like no gas was coming in . Got it towed back to my house . when i tried starting it turned on but when I turn it off it won’t start . Could you give me an idea what’s going on here

  52. By wildarmz on Oct 1, 2010 | Reply

    H.A.: When you say it doesn’t start, does it at least crank? Could be your fuel pump dying, idle air control servo (attached to throttle body), weak battery/alternator. Search 3si.org for more info.

  53. By H.A on Oct 12, 2010 | Reply

    Have 1992 Dodge Stealth (Non-Turbo) , Driving one day and the rmp dipped really low and engine light came on but it pick up and keep going . Few hours later after getting off school I was at a left turn and it just shut off. Tried to start it but seemed like no gas was coming in . Got it towed back to my house . When I tried starting it turned on but when I turn it off it won’t start . Could you give me an idea what’s going on here

    Went to canadian tire and they said it was the PCM(ECU) They were going to charge me 900 to fix it , Figured I’d try myself . Found the PCM location , disconnected it then plugged it back in again , now it’s working like perfect. ( PCM is located by gas peddle behind the center council , Have to remove side panel to access it ). Just wonder if you think that when I disconnected the PCM I rebooted it and fixed it ?

  54. By wildarmz on Oct 12, 2010 | Reply

    H.A: $900 is what a dealership would change for a new ECU (or PCM as you call it), but you did well to hold off as they’re available much cheaper.

    Unplugging/replugging does nothing except reset the stored fuel trims. The issue might be with the ECU itself. It’s EXTREMELY common for 91-93 ECUs to go bad. The capacitors on the board leak and destroy the board slowly but surely. It’s not like an on/off switch either, it causes lots of intermittent issues. With the capacitors, it’s not a matter of if, but when.

    It’s easy enough to pull out and open up. Remove the cover on the ECU (4 screws) and look closely for signs of capacitor leakage. They can usually be rebuilt even if theres some leakage.

  55. By H.A on Oct 12, 2010 | Reply

    I understand what you’re saying . But ever since I unplugged it and plugged it back in Its running fine , it has been a week so far no problems at all . Should I wait to see if anything will happen,or is it better if I change it ?

  56. By wildarmz on Oct 12, 2010 | Reply

    I dont know why it made it a difference, it’s good to hear your car is running again though. If it were my car I would pull the ECU and take a look at the board. Getting stuck on the road is expensive! :)

  57. By H.A on Oct 18, 2010 | Reply

    lol it sucks. Any clue what else it could have been

  58. By Jack on Oct 22, 2010 | Reply

    96 Mitsu 3000GTSL, 105K miles, SRS light on, and now on warm afternoons, a warning buzzer goes on/off or constant chirp when I hit bumps in the road. Very annoying. No chirping or buzzer sounds on the way to work in the mornings, only the afternoons. I pulled the seat belt warning fuze and I am still getting this ANNOYING noise! The buzzer I am getting sounds like the buzzer you hear when you leave the lights on or keys in the ignition switch after you shut down. Any ideas?

    Thanks!

  59. By wildarmz on Oct 22, 2010 | Reply

    Jack: Is it the open door buzzer? The connector for that is behind the radio. Thats the only annoying buzzer I can think of. I pulled that the first day I got my car.

  60. By H.A on Oct 23, 2010 | Reply

    I opened the ECU , wheres the capacitor ?

  61. By Daniele on Nov 14, 2010 | Reply

    I have a 92 3000 gt and it has had some fuel problems…its real sluggish and makes a pop pop noise… oi have just put a new fuel pump new converter everything and it is still acting up what can i do?

  62. By Amir on Jan 4, 2011 | Reply

    Hey i have a 94 3000gt SL non-turbo with only 100k miles on it, check the ECS caps in the hood theyre fine check the ECS computer there is no visual leaking Caps or blown as per say. the sport light flashes but no Touring light at all. struts are fine i asume with 100k miles. is there rear strut ECS caps that i havent check?! what could be the problem ECS computer is $350 from Mitsubishi dealer thats a lot for a tiny computer board!

  63. By wildarmz on Jan 4, 2011 | Reply

    Amir,

    Yes there are rear strut caps. Double check all the wires going TO the strut caps. There’s also a connector INSIDE the cap that connects to the top of the strut. Disconnect and re-seat those, check for breaks. If those wires all check out then it’s most likely the ECS computer. I have two working ones on me. If you end up needing one email me at wildarmz at gmail.com.

  64. By wildarmz on Jan 4, 2011 | Reply

    Daniele,

    Was the ECU/ECM ever replaced? I would start with checking that. You can pull it out and inspect the capacitors on it. Those tend to go bad. Does the exhaust smell like unburned fuel? Sounds like you may be running rich (i.e too much fuel being dumped in the engine).

  65. By Danny on Jan 4, 2011 | Reply

    Hello, I purchased a automatic 1993 stealth rt, I bought it from an auction so I have no history.

    The car would stay in first gear, as soon as it shifted in to 2nd gear it would go like into neutral. If I turned off the OD it would at least stay in gear. Also it would barely work in reverse.

    I had the transmission rebuilt, the mechanic said it was fried, The transmission will now work fine in reverse but still has the same issues not wanting to shift to 2nd or any higher gear. Could it be the Transmission computer?

    Thanks

  66. By wildarmz on Jan 4, 2011 | Reply

    Danny,

    The TCU (transmission computer) is prone to the same capacitor leaking problem that the main ECU is in years 91-93. It’s absolutely worth looking into the TCU; just pop the cover on it and look closely for corrosion on the board. Even if it looks good it may be worth picking up a spare cheaply: http://www.3sguide.com/parts/3000gt-stealth-transmission-computer/

    If you are still stumped after, check out 3si.org’s sub-forum for auto transmission info and help: http://www.3si.org/forum/f72/

    Good luck!

  67. By Amir on Jan 5, 2011 | Reply

    My 94 3000gt sl non turbo speedometer started acting up all of a sudden
    Its jumpy and I have to go like 40mph for it to even work. Some people say it’s
    The ECU some say speed sensor on the tranny I don’t see an actual cable do these cars not have a speedometer cable?!
    I’ve never had this problem before. Any ideas appreciated

  68. By wildarmz on Jan 5, 2011 | Reply

    Amir,

    The speedometer sensor on 2nd gen 3000GTs is electronic – no cable involved. The sensor threads into the transmission and looks like this: http://www.dragtimes.com/images-classifieds-large/3000gt-Speed-sensor-VSS-speedometer-for-sale_190470544985.jpg (most of it is hidden inside the transmission). If you need held finding a used one send me a message on the “Contact” page. It could also be your gauge cluster that’s on the fritz.

  69. By Amir on Jan 6, 2011 | Reply

    94 3000gt SL there is a slight ticking noise coming from under the dash when i accelerate then it goes away, i cant hear the sound from the engine compartment, any thought will be appreciated

  70. By Hek on Jan 17, 2011 | Reply

    I’m having the same issue! It’s a very light ticking that can best be described as similar to the sound of a playing card against bicycle spokes. Not a tinny or metal sound; more like a “fluttering.” it only occurs upon acceleration, stops when I let off the gas, and doea not occur at all when I accelerate in “park.”help please!

  71. By wildarmz on Jan 28, 2011 | Reply

    The hydraulic lifters in 91-98 models typically make that sound on cold days (sometimes constantly if they are collapsed). Could be the MFI relay, which is located to the right of the shifter behind the passenger side carpet. You can remove the carpet and listen closely. Those are the only light ticking noises I can think of.

  72. By Hek on Jan 29, 2011 | Reply

    Thank you SO much for taking the time to reply! The ticking seems to cond from right under the hood on the driver’s side. So close, it almost sounds like it’s in the dash. I did notice today it made the noise when idling. Sounds just like a playing card hitting bicycle spokes. Does that still seem like a lifter issue?

  73. By wildarmz on Jan 30, 2011 | Reply

    Yep, sounds exactly like that and the sound should accelerate as you push the gas pedal. It should be coming from under the valve covers if you listen closely under the hood. In 1999 models they put in a new style of hydraulic lifters that got rid of that issue, but 91-98 are prone to it. Check out the difference in this picture: http://www.3sx.com/store/catalog/lash-adjusters-newer-6-400.jpg – 99 model on the left allows for easier flow of oil.

    My 94 does it on cold days until the car is warmed up. If it’s completely collapsed it will do it all the time (and COULD cause damage to the cam shaft(s).). Try using synthetic oil (10W-30) at your next oil change and see if it goes away. If your oil pressure is low and you’re due for a 120k mile service, the oil pump could be the root of the problem.

    Also make sure nothing is hitting the a/c and accessory belts on the driver’s side of the engine. Might be obvious but it’s easy to miss stuff like that.

    Feel free to use http://www.3sguide.com/contact/ to contact me directly by email.

  74. By dave on Feb 7, 2011 | Reply

    recently bought a 93 stealth RT that had a bad water pump, we changed it along with the timing belt, thermostat, rad cap, and radiator all brand new. the car still overheats after about 45 min of driving. the overflow/recovery tank cap has a hole that blew out the other side of the cap, being the system is pressurized could this be causing my problem, or possibly one of the sensors at the bottom of the radiator. also today did a combustion test on radiator fluid and does not appear to be a head gasket. thanks for your support.

  75. By wildarmz on Feb 7, 2011 | Reply

    dave,

    Are your radiator fans kicking in? I’m assuming you re-used the sensors that screw into the radiator, so if they dont turn on then they could be the problem. the smaller one should turn on first.

    Some other things to check:
    -Was your radiator cap replaced? As you mentioned, it is a pressurized system.
    -Is the upper radiator hose getting hot?
    -Was the coolant system “burped” (if you drain coolant then refill, or if theres a leak, sometimes air gets trapped)
    -heater core lines (do you get good heat inside?)

  76. By jerry on Feb 19, 2011 | Reply

    I have a bad tcu, when the caps leak they often blow the main processing chips, which mine did. part number MD740087. can anyone help?

  77. By Jes Gomez on Feb 24, 2011 | Reply

    Can anyone give some insight. I have a 94 ‘ 3000gt standard. i don’t know if this is a common function on these cars but when I turn my car on the oil pressure gauge stay at the first and second tick line, upon acceleration the pressure needle goes up about mid way but when I stop it goes back down. Is this normal or what could be the problem?

  78. By wildarmz on Feb 24, 2011 | Reply

    Jes Gomez -

    It is normal for the oil pressure to fluctuate (higher pressure as you rev up). When the car is fully warmed up, it should idle 2-3 ticks from the bottom. If you floor it, it should go near the top.

    If you have over 120,000 miles and haven’t changed the oil pump, I recommend doing that ASAP. It also involves doing the water pump, timing belt, etc at the same time.

  79. By Jes Gomez on Feb 25, 2011 | Reply

    Wildarmz Thanks I just changed all that, just making sure havent had standard car in about 5 yrs. Also my car is not passing smog and I just had the valve gasket cover, sprk plugs, wireset, fuel filter, water pump, master cylinder, timing belt, head gasket, oil change w/ filter, oil pump, and the gaskets sealing the cam shafts. Nothing else was done and I just purchased the car about 3 months ago. Have any suggestions and possibly a sight that sells parts cheap? Car once again is 94′ 3000GT SL non-turbo DOCH. The website I usually use is http://www.partstrain.com.

  80. By wildarmz on Feb 25, 2011 | Reply

    I personally use Mitsparts.com for factory Mitsu parts, Rockauto/eBay for OEM. If you arent passing emissions look into your o2 sensor. There’s only one on 94 non-turbos, unless you have a California model. Your catalytic converter could be bad too. Otherwise I dont see why you wouldn’t pass smog if all that work was done.

  81. By joe on Mar 7, 2011 | Reply

    Ok I have a 94 dodge stealth noturbo DOHC with 84000 and I was wondering what causes it to jerk when excellerating at high rpm.

  82. By joe on Mar 8, 2011 | Reply

    Also found out that my alternator is shot

  83. By Simon on Apr 6, 2011 | Reply

    Hey I have a problem, my 91 Dodge Stealth TT like 4 days ago started to grind when trying to put it into third gear it doesnt sound too bad but since i heard it i have not been using 3rd gear at all so two part question 1. can i continue driving it without the use of 3rd gear and 2. does synchromesh or high viscosity fluid help this problem in reality.

  84. By Dave on Apr 20, 2011 | Reply

    I just got a 92 stealth a few months ago. Ran great, than one day it lost half the power than would run sluggish off & on. Still ran, but no power. Took it to mechanic, he replaced one coil that he said was getting hot and shorting out,and 4eplaced the module before the coil and gave it back. It still had no power and when driving for 5-10 minutes it did it all again. Then after a week the catalytic conv took a dump badly. I checked the ecu for leaky capacitors, looked fine. Also when the car would go to act up, the rpm gauge would bounce all over the place. Please help

  85. By jose on Apr 25, 2011 | Reply

    Have had this 94 dodge stealth rt tt for 3 years. I crank it up one evening and the motor sounds and feels different. The exhaust has a slight differnt sound to it and motor is a little shaky not much but a little. Now when i took off it lacks power. Motor still feels shaky at low rpm around 1000 1500 crusing and if u give it more gas it gets shakier. Any help i checked my fuel injectors and i have a wideband guage and it reads normal. Checked my coils and iam running msd dis-4 its good too. No vaccume leaks no cels besides egr that i blocked off.

  86. By slapandpickle on May 12, 2011 | Reply

    Hi I’m new to this forum. I have a question with your advice I may come to a conclusion.so myfriends family owns a mechanic shop and they had a 94 stealth just sitting there I asked my friend about it he told me it belonged to his brother. The ecm went bad so he replaced it, after that he replaced it 2 more times because ecm’s went bad again. After that he payed no attention to it. He says he will sell me the car for 400-600$ but that’s aside for the repairs they.will do. What do you guys think am I getting myself into a mess?

  87. By Jedi Master on May 15, 2011 | Reply

    ECMs in 94 models typically do not go bad; it’s probably something else. $400-$600 is a great deal.

  88. By slapandpickle on May 16, 2011 | Reply

    Thanks for the reply, he told me they believe that there is a short some where that, that is killing the ecm’s. I haven’t seen the ecm’s so I’m not sure but can a short brake an ecm? And if that’s the problem typically what is the cost for the ecm the repair if a short and the labor. Ty

  89. By wildarmz on May 16, 2011 | Reply

    Yes, they can get shorted out, typically by the ECS computer, idle air control servo, or injector circuit. 94-95 non-turbo ECMs are pretty cheap–$100 tops. I actually have two good ones sitting here (part # MD192591). Shoot me an email at wildarmz@gmail.com if interested.

    Be sure to check out 3si.org also

  90. By Josue on May 17, 2011 | Reply

    I need to know whare I can get the Capacitors parts for STEALTH TCU MD740087?

  91. By slapandpickle on May 17, 2011 | Reply

    If the problem is not the Ecm what might it be? a short? my friend thinks that’s the problem would this brake the ecm. If so what would it be cost wise to repair a short, a new ecm, and repair costs? if this is the problem. Ty

  92. By slapandpickle on May 17, 2011 | Reply

    OK thanks I will look into that. (disregard recent post)

  93. By slapandpickle on May 18, 2011 | Reply

    So how would I fix the problem of the continueing shorting of the ecm? Would it be one that you mentioned maybe bad? Esc, idle air control servo, or injector circut. Ty

  94. By Tony on Jun 18, 2011 | Reply

    i have 91 3000gt need to know if a 94 dash will fit on a my 91 mine is all crakced bought used….. also i my motor just went … no signd of nothing ran fine then one day it just spunn avalve or somehting anyway bought a jdm motor.. was told it has between 40 – 60k should i do any maintanice onthe motor before install?? or wait like 20k miles then do it??

    thanks
    antmat1977@hotmail.com

  95. By jaytee on Jul 31, 2011 | Reply

    I just bought a 98 3000GT base model and it has plugs going into the transmission and the cold air intake but i cant find the wires that go into them. Any suggestions on where to look? And also there is a port for a hose on my cold air and i cant figure out where that goes either.

  96. By Jeff on Sep 7, 2011 | Reply

    Hi, I just bought a 92 3000GT SL with 46K on it its in beautiful cond, Pearl white 5 sp. Got if from a dealer for 670000 out the door did I get a fair deal? They were asking 9000.00. I luv the car but it seems to have minor suspension problems it drifts a bit seems to wander on its own, front end floats, checked steering fluid looks fine.

    How do you check the gear oil? How often should it be changed?

    BTW thanks for all your advise you are a Godsend!

  97. By Mr Ivo on Sep 30, 2011 | Reply

    Hi I have a Dodge Stealth 93 and yesterday replaced the old with the new alternator
    but the problem with battery did not go away when checked Battery voltage it was supposed to be 13V but it shows only 11.79V to start the engine and it continued to fall below 9.8V then I removed the battery from the car because I did not want to buy a new one because I bought it recently (2 weeks ago )
    on the alternator and battery replaced, I have just do not understand Why does the battery voltage dropped???? Perhaps someone can suggest what should I do?
    ps fuses and relays already checked two times everything worked properly.
    Thank you Sincerely, Ivo Lanka from the Latvian

  98. By Mr Ivo on Sep 30, 2011 | Reply

    please replay to e-mail shmiga88@hotmail.com

  99. By Sheray on Oct 13, 2011 | Reply

    I have a 94 1/2 Dodge Stealth RT non turbo. Bought it new in 94. 1/2 because I have been told by different dealers that some of parts and features are 95. Great car, I have had no major problems over the years. I’m now at 159k. My tour/sport light is flashing. I’ve read to check the ECS and the strut for frayed wires. I have never had the struts replaced. Should I consider that as well with my troubleshooting? Thanks.

  100. By Jimmy on Dec 19, 2011 | Reply

    well i just fliped my 1993 Dodge Stealth ES DOHC 24 v and ya i think it is mostly cosmetic damages but when i fliped it , it was still running and then i shut it off . should i just drop the engine and put it in a 3000GT or restore for the dodge stealth it is . but i know it will be more costly to restore it to stealth form . but is it worth it ?

  101. By jimmy on Dec 19, 2011 | Reply

    well i had the same problem but i just took the battery out of my moms vehicle that fits my stealth and my voltage went up and everything went great .

  102. By Alek on Dec 21, 2011 | Reply

    Hello, great post.
    I am looking into getting a ’91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT. It is a very reasonable price and the car seems great. It has 186k miles on the clock, and the owner has no maintenance records, but I plan to get the timing belt replaced right after I get it(if I do). The only problems with this car that I can tell, is the SRS light being on(not a big deal to me) and when accelerating quickly, and getting to high rpms, it starts shaking and loosing power, I shift and it keeps going fine, no lights or anything blinking when doing this. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

  103. By Wes on Jan 24, 2012 | Reply

    ive got a 95 stealth rt non turbo that i traded my 1998 cadillac catera for the stealth has 177k and the only problems i noticed were a ticking noise from under the hood i figured coming from the lifters it only does it when cold and lasts 2-5 minutes then goes away what can i do to solve that issue also the exhaust smells like its burning oil. my oil pressure is normal and the level on the dipstick stays the same what could be the cause of it and how can i clear it up? also i dont have an owners manual with the car and the anti lock light is on? as well as a light on the right hand side above the “house with pillars” looks like a tank with a low fluid level. coolant and everything appear full any idea what it is? if u or anyone else who knows the soulutions to my issues could you please email me at waechwes@gmail.com id really appreciate it thanks. also what all should be replaced or serviced i have no maintenance records for the vehicle and this is the first one ive owned its the non turbo automatic stealth rt with 177,000 miles by the way. again thanx in advance to any and all who can help answer my questions.

  104. By brandon on Jan 27, 2012 | Reply

    really should not have got the auto the trans goes out it will be atleast 3000 for someone to touch it i had the same car and it went to the scrapper sad it was nice but i had a base stealth it lasted a long time and just 3 days ago i got the good one a 92 rt tt awd aws and i love it and mine is ticking as well if u here anything let me no plz and dont worry about the anti lock mine is on to i think it needs to be

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